So some of you have been putting off buying a new computer, waiting for Windows 7, and some of you are considering whether to upgrade from Windows XP or Vista.  Here's our .02 on these subjects.

Our quick take on this:  If you have Windows XP and your system is working ok for you, don't bother upgrading it - this option is really for hobbyists and computer enthusiasts.  If that's you, then you can upgrade anytime you want.  For everybody else using Windows XP, the choice is stick with what you have for awhile, or go buy a new PC with Windows 7.  Now, if you have Windows Vista, we say go to Windows 7 at the earliest opportunity.  Even Vista SP2 isn't nearly as trouble-free or as fast as Windows 7. We've used Windows XP, Vista, and 7 extensively, and hands-down Windows 7 is the best overall by a healthy margin - much more stable, better (but mostly unobtrusive) security, and much better performance.  Now, there is one caveat - not all software you have or use will work in Windows 7, so be sure to check with the manufacturer to make sure it is compatible with Windows 7.  Or, you can use Microsoft's .  The quick rule of thumb is that if the software runs in Windows Vista, it'll run in Windows 7.  We happen to use a video editing program that doesn't work in Vista, so the PCs that run that will be on Windows XP for awhile.

If your computer is over 4 years old, in general it's pretty much time for a new computer.  You may consider a Windows 7 computer, or an iMac or a MacBook.  With Windows 7, Microsoft has drawn closer to the Mac in terms of performance and stability, although Windows will continue to be a large target for hackers and other nefarious denizens of the internet, and will always present more of a computer security challenge.  Unless, of course, Apple's market share of the personal computer sector were to grow much more than it is now - then the hackers would start to target it.  Macs aren't immune to attack, but they are much less prone to being attacked (IMHO).  But our focus is on Windows PCs, so if you're with us, read on!

• If you buy a new computer, do you buy a desktop or a laptop?  These days, most any laptop will have all the power you need for normal tasks.  Plus, you have the ability to work even in a power outage, the ability to work just about anywhere, and the ability to take your work with you wherever you go (this may not be a boon for many!).

• If you buy a desktop PC, you have the advantage of having more standard parts (easier to replace or upgrade), likely more powerful graphics for the cost, and likely more hard drive space for data storage.  If you already have a flat-screen monitor, it may be worthwhile.  If you are still using a CRT monitor with your desktop PC, it's time to make a switch - flat-screens consume a lot less energy, and are now priced very low.  Expect to pay $400-$700 for a good desktop PC, and a couple hundred for a flat-screen monitor if you need it.

• There is an in-between option, but we don't think it's quite ready for prime-time.  That's the all-in-one PC, basically a large, wide-screen monitor with the guts of a PC tucked behind the screen.  Some even have touch-screen capability (but you'll still want a keyboard and mouse to deal with emails, writing documents, etc.).  Expect to pay well over $1,000.  This finds its best u se as an internet kiosk, perhaps in the kitchen or a office waiting room.

• If you buy a laptop PC, you have some choices to make:  The first one is screen size.  For most people, a 15" (or so) widescreen monitor is big enough.  If you jump up to 17" or larger, be prepared for greater weight and somewhat less portability.  If you don't plan on flying with it, that may be worth it - you'd be surprised how much larger that extra 2" is.  You may also want to pay attention to the screen resolution.  Many laptops that come with DVD or Blu-Ray capability will have very high screen resolutions - this can mean very small stuff on-screen, so the bigger the display the better.  Most laptops you'll be ableo to get on Windows 7's launch date will have ample memory and hard drive space, plus decent wireless capability, so don't worry much about those (just make sure there's at least 2gb of RAM and 250gb of hard drive space).  So the last big question is about graphics capability.  If the laptop comes with a DVD or Blu-ray player, the graphics will be a bit better than if it doesn't.  But for most things you'll do, whatever the laptop comes with will be fine. Unless you are a gamer or video editor - those tasks take more graphics computing horsepower.  If that's you, look for an nVidia or ATI graphics adapter with at least 512mb of video memory.  BTW, you can spend thousands for a true "gaming laptop", but for most casual gaming and online gaming, you should be able to find something good for under $1,500.  For everybody else, you can find a nice laptop for between $500-$800 easy.  We'd stay away from the under $500 group, they generally don't have the horsepower needed to do the tasks you want.

• The last option we'd consider is the netbook.  We feel the utility of this format is very limited - after a few hours of use, you'll be wishing you had a regular notebook.  For some road warriors and casual computer users, it may be fine, but we'll hold out for Apple's iPad (or iTablet), coming within the next 6 months.

If your computer is less than 4 years old, has Windows XP or Vista on it and is working ok and not physically damaged in any way, you can consider upgrading to Windows 7.  We have been testing the Release Candidate of Windows 7 for over 6 months now - we installed it on several different computers, 2 desktop PCs, and 4 laptops.  One desktop was over 4 years old and had Windows XP, the other one was 2 years old and had Vista.  The laptops ranged in age from 5 years old to 2 years old, some with XP and some with Vista.

So here's the good news:  Windows 7 installed virtually trouble-free on all of them, and has run without any problems ever since!  Please see our Windows 7 setup tips below.  If your computer has at least 1gb of RAM, you can make the upgrade, but the system will be a bit slow, we recommend at least 2gb.  If you have 512mb, be sure to check with the computer maufacturer (or use the online memory configurator at www.crucial.com) to make sure you computer can be upgraded to 2gb.  We've tried both the clean install and the Vista-to-Windows 7 in-place upgrade - we prefer the clean install, but that is more work...

Now here's the not-so-good news:  There is no in-place upgrade for Windows XP, you must do a clean install (wiping the hard drive and installing from scratch Windows 7 and all your applications).  We actually don't like the Vista-to-Windows 7 upgrade in place either, but I imagine most upgraders won't want to spend the extra time and effort to do a clean install if they can avoid it.  But we think you'll be doing yourself a favor if you do a clean install on a nice, new hard drive.

Also consider the cost:  For any computer that's over 2 years old, we recommend you replace the hard drive - that's the primary moving part in a computer that wears out, and hard drives are cheap (like $100 or less).  The cost of the Windows 7 upgrade is a factor ($120 for the Home Premium version, if you want to run older software or connect to a corporate domain you need to spend $200 for the Professional version).  Plus, you'll likely need a new protection program (we recommend Norton Internet Security 2010, which costs $70 for a one-year subscription).  If you don't have the installation CDs for your software, you may need to buy software (except for Vista-to-Windows 7 upgraders).  If your computer has less than 1gb of RAM, you may need more (may cost $40 or so).  And finally, you may want to consider the cost of your time (or someone you hire to do the upgrade), which may run several hours or more.  You may be approaching the cost of a new replacement computer anyway.  But you make the call.  Again, we consider upgrading a computer to be something best done by computer enthusiasts or hobbyists. If that's you, we've provided a Windows 7 installation guide below.

Of course, we'd be happy to do the upgrade for you (and so will a myriad of other computer consulting firms), but for the most part, you'll end up paying as much or more than the cost of a new computer.  Doing it yourself is really the only way that makes sense to us, unless you have much more money than time.  If that's you (and you're in the Wash. DC metro area),

So how do you do this upgrade? We highly recommend a truly clean install for everyone.  Think about it: the moving part most likely to wear out first on a PC is the hard drive.  If you are trying to breathe new life into a slightly aged desktop or laptop PC, then your first purchases should be:

• a replacement hard drive (be sure to get one that's compatible with your PC - either IDE/EIDE or SATA in most cases).  You can get quite a bit more capacity than you had previously and be quite happy.  Also, if your hard drive isn't a 7200rpm drive, make sure the replacement is.

• a Windows 7 upgrade disc.  Microsoft is selling the family pack of Home Premium for $150 (a single version is $120).  With the family pack, you can install it on up to three computers (that works out to $50 per computer, nice!).

• If you have less than 1gb of RAM, visit and see if you can increase the RAM - we recommend 2gb.

• If you don't have a backup drive or a high-capacity thumb drive, get one.  We like the WD Passport drives - they don't require an electrical power source and are very small (and not high-priced).  Get one with enough capacity to copy all your files from the old computer.

• Oh yeah, that's the first step in the upgrade process - copy all your files to an external hard drive.  By all means, copy these folders:

  • Windows XP:  My Documents, Desktop, Favorites, and any other folders that may contain your information (there shouldn't be any, but you never know, so search around).  Do the same for every user account.

  • Windows Vista: Just click Start, and your username and a window will open with all your user folders.  You can copy them all, or pick and choose.

  • windows XP/Vista:  If you use an email program installed on your computer (like Outlook Express or Outlook), be sure to record (we mean write down) your email account settings from the program's Account Settings (username, password, incoming mail server name, outgoing mail server name, and any special settings for the outgoing mail server).  And don't forget to copy your data files!

    • For Outlook, open the Control Panel, then Mail, and open the folder containing your data file (usually outlook.pst).  Copy that to your external hard drive

    • For Outlook Express, you'll need to locate your folders (in the program, go to Tools, Options, Maintenance, and then click the Store Folder button. That will show you where they are.  Navigate there in Windows Explorer and copy everything to the external drive.  But, you're not done!  You need your Address book.  In the program's main menu, click File,  Export, and Address Book.  You'll likely want to choose the text file format.  Export that to your external hard drive.

      • The reason to choose the text format is simple:  Windows 7 has no Outlook Express.  You will need to switch to an online WebMail program, or Outlook, or something else.  Microsoft has as a replacement, but you may be happier with something else.  Sort of depends on where your email account comes from - if provided by your internet service provider, it's a POP account, but they may have a webmail version. Or, you can use any free email service like Google's gmail and have it check that account.

Ok, with all your precious data backed up on an external hard drive and all your other stuff purchased, you're ready to upgrade, right?  If you plan on using your existing hard drive, then skip the next paragraph, and choose the "Use your old operating system method".  Otherwise, read on...

Here's the rub:  Microsoft has changed the way the upgrading process works.  Before, you were able to install Windows on a new, blank hard drive and just pop in the old version of Windows' installation disc to validate your right to upgrade.  With Windows 7, you can't do that.  So here's two workarounds to do after you've replaced the hard drive:

1. Use your old operating system (if you have the license key and installation disc):

   1. First, install your old operating system on the new hard drive, using the install media and your old license key. 

   2. Then, install Windows 7 and select  the custom install, and select to not save anything.  The installation program will wipe out your old operating system and you'll be good to go.

2. Use the Windows 7 upgrade disc twice:

   1. Install Windows 7 on the blank hard drive.  Do not put in your license key and uncheck to automatically activate.  Complete the installation.

   2. Once you are booted into Windows 7, re-start the Windows installation from the upgrade disc.  Yes, start all over again!. This time, put in your license key and check the box to automatically activate. 

   3. After the installation is complete, you can get the latest updates, install additional software, etc.

A few notes about installing Windows 7 on an older PC:

• Older hardware (but not too old!) will most work fine without any special drivers - even for laptops.  If you find some hardware that doesn't work, you may have to search the manufacturer's website for a Vista-compatible driver.  If there isn't one, you may have to wait a few months until they make one.  In most cases, you can do without that hardware, at least for awhile.  We installed Windows 7 on a number of laptops and desktops, and only had one bit of hardware that wouldn't work - a SD card reader built into an Acer Aspire laptop.  we can live without that...

• Install your other software from the installation discs.  Do not install really old software, and we'd avoid really cheap or free software except for a short list of acceptable items (we will continue to update this list): 

  • Visit www.adobe.com and get the latest version of Flash Player and Adobe Reader.

  • Visit and get the latest version of iTunes and Quicktime.

  • If you have lots of digital photos and want a good way to manage them, get Google's .

Avoid installing any software you don't really need.  Do not avoid installing a protection program - Windows computers will likely always be a ripe target for hackers.  Again, we recommend Norton Internet Security 2010.  After installation, immediately get updates to that program. 

So presumably, you now have a brand new computer with Windows 7 on it (doesn't it run fast!) and your favorite programs.  You're not done...

Your next-to-last step is to copy back all the data from your external drive.  Plug it in, wait for Windows to recognize it, and then use the same two-window method as above.  Windows 7 uses folders similar to Windows Vista, so just copy them back to the same place.  For Windows XP users who are moving to Windows 7, click Start, and then your username at the top right of the start menu.  That'll open your set of folders in Windows 7.  Copy back from the external drive window - do it folder by folder to get them in the right place.

• For Outlook or other email programs, we find it best to open the program, setup your email account (username, password, incoming server name, outgoing server name and mail server-specific settings.  Then import the old stuff from the external drive.  For folks who used Outlook Express, decide on what you're going to use (such as ) and set it up, then import your old files (inbox, outbox, and your Address Book) into it. We haven't tried this yet, but hear there is a wizard to import your old mail folders and address book.

Ok, last step.  Now, one by one, open your programs and set any personal customizations you want.  If you use Outlook, we like to add an icon to the main toolbar to add a sender to the Junk e-mail sender's list, and expand the folder list as a start.

You're done!  Now you can get back to using your computer!