So some of you have been putting off buying a new computer, waiting for Windows 7, and some of you are considering whether to upgrade from Windows XP or Vista.  Here's our .02 on these subjects.

Our quick take on this:  If you have Windows XP and your system is working ok for you, don't bother upgrading it - this option is really for hobbyists and computer enthusiasts.  If that's you, then you can upgrade anytime you want.  For everybody else using Windows XP, the choice is stick with what you have for awhile, or go buy a new PC with Windows 7.  Now, if you have Windows Vista, we say go to Windows 7 at the earliest opportunity.  Even Vista SP2 isn't nearly as trouble-free as Windows 7. We've used Windows XP, Vista, and 7 extensively, and hands-down Windows 7 is the best overall by a healthy margin - much more stable, better (but mostly unobtrusive) security, and much better performance.  Now, there is one caveat - not all software you have or use will work in Windows 7, so be sure to check with the manufacturer to make sure it is compatible with Windows 7.  Or, you can use Microsoft's .  The quick rule of thumb is that if the software runs in Windows Vista, it'll run in Windows 7.  We happen to use a video editing program that doesn't work in Vista, so the PCs that run that will be on Windows XP for awhile.

If your computer is over 4 years old, in general it's pretty much time for a new computer.  You may consider a Windows 7 computer, or an iMac or a MacBook.  With Windows 7, Microsoft has drawn closer to the Mac in terms of performance and stability, although Windows will continue to be a large target for hackers and other nefarious denizens of the internet, and will always present more of a computer security challenge.  Unless, of course, Apple's market share of the personal computer sector were to grow much more than it is now - then the hackers would start to target it.  Macs aren't immune to attack, but they are much less prone to being attacked (IMHO).  But our focus is on Windows PCs, so if you're with us, read on!

• If you buy a new computer, do you buy a desktop or a laptop?  These days, most any laptop will have all the power you need for normal tasks.  Plus, you have the ability to work even in a power outage, the ability to work just about anywhere, and the ability to take your work with you wherever you go (this may not be a boon for many!).

• If you buy a desktop PC, you have the advantage of having more standard parts (easier to replace or upgrade), likely more powerful graphics for the cost, and likely more hard drive space for data storage.  If you already have a flat-screen monitor, it may be worthwhile.  If you are still using a CRT monitor with your desktop PC, it's time to make a switch - flat-screens consume a lot less energy, and are now priced very low.  Expect to pay $400-$700 for a good desktop PC, and a couple hundred for a flat-screen monitor if you need it.

• There is an in-between option, but we don't think it's quite ready for prime-time.  That's the all-in-one PC, basically a large, wide-screen monitor with the guts of a PC tucked behind the screen.  Some even have touch-screen capability (but you'll still want a keyboard and mouse to deal with emails, writing documents, etc.).  Expect to pay well over $1,000.  This finds its best u se as an internet kiosk, perhaps in the kitchen or a office waiting room.

• If you buy a laptop PC, you have some choices to make:  The first one is screen size.  For most people, a 15" (or so) widescreen monitor is big enough.  If you jump up to 17" or larger, be prepared for greater weight and somewhat less portability.  If you don't plan on flying with it, that may be worth it - you'd be surprised how much larger that extra 2" is.  You may also want to pay attention to the screen resolution.  Many laptops that come with DVD or Blu-Ray capability will have very high screen resolutions - this can mean very small stuff on-screen, so the bigger the display the better.  Most laptops you'll be ableo to get on Windows 7's launch date will have ample memory and hard drive space, plus decent wireless capability, so don't worry much about those (just make sure there's at least 2gb of RAM and 250gb of hard drive space).  So the last big question is about graphics capability.  If the laptop comes with a DVD or Blu-ray player, the graphics will be a bit better than if it doesn't.  But for most things you'll do, whatever the laptop comes with will be fine. Unless you are a gamer or video editor - those tasks take more graphics computing horsepower.  If that's you, look for an nVidia or ATI graphics adapter with at least 512mb of video memory.  BTW, you can spend thousands for a true "gaming laptop", but for most casual gaming and online gaming, you should be able to find something good for under $1,500.  For everybody else, you can find a nice laptop for between $500-$800 easy.  We'd stay away from the under $500 group, they generally don't have the horsepower needed to do the tasks you want.

• The last option we'd consider is the netbook.  We feel the utility of this format is very limited - after a few hours of use, you'll be wishing you had a regular notebook.  For some road warriors and casual computer users, it may be fine, but we'll hold out for Apple's iPad (or iTablet), coming within the next 6 months.

If your computer is less than 4 years old, has Windows XP or Vista on it and is working ok and not physically damaged in any way, you can consider upgrading to Windows 7.  We have been testing the Release Candidate of Windows 7 for over 6 months now - we installed it on several different computers, 2 desktop PCs, and 4 laptops.  One desktop was over 4 years old and had Windows XP, the other one was 2 years old and had Vista.  The laptops ranged in age from 5 years old to 2 years old, some with XP and some with Vista.

So here's the good news:  Windows 7 installed virtually trouble-free on all of them, and has run without any problems ever since!  Please see our Windows 7 setup tips below.  If your computer has at least 1gb of RAM, you can make the upgrade, but the system will be a bit slow, we recommend at least 2gb.  If you have 512mb, be sure to check with the computer maufacturer (or use the online memory configurator at www.crucial.com) to make sure you computer can be upgraded to 2gb.  We've tried both the clean install and the Vista-to-Windows 7 in-place upgrade - we prefer the clean install, but that is more work...

Now here's the not-so-good news:  There is no in-place upgrade for Windows XP, you must do a clean install (wiping the hard drive and installing from scratch Windows 7 and all your applications).  We actually don't like the Vista-to-Windows 7 upgrade in place either, but I imagine most upgraders won't want to spend the exra time and effort to do a clean install if they can avoid it. 

Also consider the cost:  For any computer that's over 2 years old, we recommend you replace the hard drive - that's the primary moving part in a computer that wears out, and hard drives are cheap (like $100 or less).  The cost of the Windows 7 upgrade is a factor ($120 for the Home Premium version, if you want to run older software or connect to a corporate domain you need to spend $200 for the Professional version).  Plus, you'll likely need a new protection program (we recommend Norton Internet Security 2010, which costs $70 for a one-year subscription).  If you don't have the installation CDs for your software, you may need to buy software (except for Vista-to-Windows 7 upgraders).  If your computer has less than 1gb of RAM, you may need more (may cost $40 or so).  And finally, you may want to consider the cost of your time (or someone you hire to do the upgrade), which may run several hours or more.  You may be approaching the cost of a new replacement computer anyway.  But you make the call.  Again, we consider upgrading a computer to be something best done by computer enthusiasts or hobbyists. If that's you, we've provided a Windows 7 installation guide below.

Of course, we'd be happy to do the upgrade for you (and so will a myriad of other computer consulting firms), but for the most part, you'll end up paying as much or more than the cost of a new computer.  Doing it yourself is really the only way that makes sense to us, unless you have much more money than time.  If that's you (and you're in the Wash. DC metro area),

So how do you do this upgrade? Here's our guide.  Please note this is not a comprehensive step-by-step instruction list, but a guideline.  There are too many variables that preclude detailed instructions -  which operating system you have (and what version), what software you have (and what versions), what additional hardware you have, etc.  But we feel this is a good rule-of-thumb guide to help you with the process.

1. First, go buy your Windows 7 upgrade disc and a replacement hard drive.  For the hard disk, by all means get more capacity, but be sure to get the same type of drive (usually ATA or SATA).  If your computer documentation, Windows' Device Manager, or System Information doesn't yield that info, try the computer manufacturer's website.  Or, just open the desktop case and look (or open the laptop and remove the hard drive and look).  An ATA drive has 2 rows of straight pins sticking out the back, whereas the SATA drive has a more modern L-shaped bracket.  You can also just bring the CPU or laptop PC into a store (like MicroCenter or Best Buy) and the helpful salesman will...help you!

2. If your computer has less than 1gb of memory, you may want to upgrade.  We like www.crucial.com and their easy online memory configurator. Be sure to do this before you start the hard drive replacement and upgrade!

3. Next step is to back up your personal data, and collect the installation CDs for any software you will be installing.  We prefer this method of copying your data:  Use (or buy) a little WD Passport drive, or a 'thumb drive' with enough memory - neither require a separate power source.    Normally, all your data is in the My Documents (Windows XP) or user (Vista) folders, but if you have data anywhere else you need to locate it and copy it from the computer to the Passport or thumb drive.  If you already have an external hard drive, you can use that.  If you no longer have the CDs for the software you use, you may be have to buy the software again.

   1. To backup your data, connect your external drive (the WD Passport, thumb drive, etc.), and open a window to that drive.  Next...

   2. For Windows XP, open a new window to My Computer.  In that window, navigate to C: drive, and Documents and Settings.  If you have multiple user accounts, you'll need to repeat this step for each one:  Navigate to your Windows User account, and highlight these three folders:  My Documents, Favorites, Desktop.  On that window, click Edit, then Copy.  Now go to the external drive window and click Edit, then Paste.  If you have multiple user accounts, you will want to create sub-folders for each user and copy each user's folders into their sub-folder. 

      1. If you use Outlook or Outlook Express (or any other email program that has software on your computer), you will need to also copy the data file(s).  Outlook's data is all in one file, usually called Outlook.pst, and can most easily be reached by going to Start, Control Panel, Mail, then opening the Data files and the folder where they are (different menu for different versions).  It works very similar for Outlook Express, only you have a bunch of folders to copy, and then you need to also go and find your address book.  Copy all of that to the external drive.

   3. For Windows Vista, click Start, and then your username on the top right of the start menu.  Copy all the folders you see in the resulting window onto your external drive.  Use the same, two-window method described above for Windows XP.

      1. For your email program, follow the same method described above for Windows XP.

   4. You should also write down or have these other pieces of info:

      1. Your email account settings: username, password, incoming mail server, outgoing mail server, and any mail server-specific settings.

   5. Be sure that your batch of installation CDs includes the installation CD for your current version (or any version) of Windows.  If you don't have that, you'll either need to upgrade to Windows 7 by first cloning your existing system to a new hard drive and then upgrading to Windows 7 (this is like the in-place upgrade, except for Windows XP it will wipe that drive before installing Windows 7).  To do this, you'll need a cloning device/method/software.  If you don't have a favorite already, we like the little $40 Apricorn Easy-Upgrade external hard drive enclosure (for laptop computers, you can get them at Microcenter or online).  It's like the WD Passport except you put your own hard drive in it. It includes software you can run on your old system to clone the hard drive before you replace it.

4. Now before you shut down the computer, open the CD drive and insert the Windows 7 upgrade disk.  Then, immediately shut down the computer, and unplug everything (cancel the installation program if it starts, or just hold down the power button to shut the computer off).  With your trusty screwdriver, you can now replace the old hard drive with the new one.  Don't throw the old one away, you want to keep it handy in case you need to go back to the old system (like, say you didn't get something when backing up).  Plus, since it still has your data on it, you don't want anyone else to get that!

5. Ok, your computer now has a new, blank hard drive, and has the Windows 7 disk in it.  Go ahead and power up.  Windows 7 will start to load.  read the (few) on-screen instructions, and follow the prompts with (usually) the default choices.  Be patient, and when the installation is complete, your system will restart.  You will probably be pleasantly surprised that everything works!  But if you aren't, just wait a bit, and restart the computer again.  Sometimes it takes a 2nd or 3rd restart for the computer to recognize all the hardware (esp. wireless devices).  If, after the 3rd restart it still hasn't recognized all the hardware (you'll either see a warning message, or something just won't work), then you may need to use another computer or reinsert your old hard drive, and check with the manufacturer for any device driver software that you may need.  But with all our testing, we didn't have to do this a single time, so hopefully you won't either.

   1. Please don't skip the step to put in a password for your Windows user account.  Having a user account without a password is just wrong - take our word for it.  You can use a simple password, and even the same password for multiple user accounts if you like, just have a password, please!

6. Next, get all the updates for Windows that are available.  Windows 7 (like Windows Vista) has a Windows Update entry on the Start|All Programs list, use that.  Take any updates that are offered, except perhaps for any foreign language packs you don't need.

7. Now you want to reinstall all your software, such as Microsoft Office, and then immediately get whatever updates to that software are available (either through the program's help menu, the software's website, or Microsoft Update).  You will also want to visit www.adobe.com and get the latest version of Flash Player and Adobe Reader, then visit and get the latest version of iTunes and Quicktime. If you want, you can get Google's for photo management. That's about all the free online programs you should download - there are lots of bad choices out there.  Oh, when you do this, only get the specific programs we mention - decline any add-on software (like toolbars and other helper applications).

8. Next, install your protection program.  Again, we recommend Norton Internet Security 2010.  After installation, immediately get updates to that program. 

9. Your next-to-last step is to copy back all the data from your external drive.  Plug it in, wait for Windows to recognize it, and then use the same two-window method as above.  Windows 7 uses folders similar to Windows Vista, so just copy them back to the same place.  For Windows XP users who are moving to Windows 7, click Start, and then your username at the top right of the start menu.  That'll open your set of folders in Windows 7.  Copy back from the external drive window - do it folder by folder to get them in the right place.

   1. For Outlook or other email programs, we find it best to open the program, setup your email account (username, password, incoming server name, outgoing server name and mail server-specific settings.  Then import the old stuff from the external drive.  For Outlook Express, Windows 7 has no built-in replacement, Microsoft has given you . We haven't tried this yet, but hear there is a wizard to import your old mail folders and address book.  Personally, if you use Outlook Express, you should move to a webmail-based service anyway.

10. Ok, last step.  Now, one by one, open your programs and set any personal customizations you want.  If you use Outlook, we like to add an icon to the main toolbar to add a sender to the Junk e-mail sender's list, and expand the folder list as a start.

You're done!  Now you can get back to using your computer!